"Duk yadda aka yi dafa shi, tayasa [ciwon ciki na saro] wani abincin ne na talakawa," in ji masanin littafi na Italiyanci Pellegrino Artusi kadan fiye da karni daya da suka wuce. "Na gano shi ba daidai ba ne a game da ƙwayoyi marasa kyau, ko da yake wannan ƙila ba gaskiya ba ne idan an dafa shi a cikin salon Milan, wanda ya sa ya zama mai haske da haske ... A cikin wasu biranen, an riga an sayar da buguwa, wannan abu ne mai sauki."
A bit of background ya zama dole a nan. Artusi ya kasance mai arziki (yana da kuɗi mai yawa don yin aiki a silks don ya yi ritaya a 1850, lokacin da ya kai shekaru 30), kuma ya yi la'akari da tayar da hankali a matsayin abin da ya dace don cike da iyali - ba irin abincin da zai ba baƙi ba.
Yawancin mutanensa sun gan shi a cikin haske mai yawa, duk da haka: Ba shi da kyau kuma kusan kowa zai iya saya shi sau ɗaya a mako ko watakila maimaitawa (har zuwa shekarun 1950, babban ɓangaren mutanen Italiyanci ya yi matukar talauci don cin nama fiye da sau ɗaya ko sau biyu a kowane mako, ana kiran su talauci ne kawai kuma shine dalilin da ya sa mutane da yawa suka yi hijira), sabili da haka tasa ta zama abinci mai mahimmanci a cikin yankunan gari mafi talauci. Kuma ta hanyar samarwa, tarin rami, ya fi kowa. Mene ne a yau wani kantin kayan gargajiya na zamani a Florence wani mai tasowa ne a cikin karni (kusa da 1905), kuma kodayake kwayoyin da aka samar ta hanyar aiki da ragamar sun kasance ana cewa "almubazzaranci," nasarar da suka samar ya kasance mai dadi sosai, kuma cikakke ga gurasa da gishiri ko shinkafa.
Wadanda suke da talauci don saya kayan ƙayyade zasu iya jin dadin dandano ta amfani da broth.
Tun daga wannan lokacin, abu mai yawa ya canza - babu mai buƙatar bugun gobarar ba, kuma ban taɓa ganin irin wannan ba tukuna wanda ba'a riga an shirya shi ba a kasuwar Italiya ko masarar kaya. Har ila yau, Tripe ya yi nasara sosai; Yanzu an bayyana shi a kan menus na gidajen cin abinci mai kyau waɗanda ke da masaniya a cikin abinci na gargajiya, kuma mutane basu jinkirta bautar da shi baƙi.
Artusi yana bada shawarar zaɓin tayin da ke da wuyanta; adadi game da laban (kimanin 450 grams) kowace mutum. Ya kamata ya zama fari, amma ba komai fari ba; sanannun Italiyanci masu safarar gargadi sun yi gargadin cewa ƙaddamar da fata-fata na iya kasancewa. Idan ka saya raguwa mai kyau, wanke shi akai-akai, tsaftace da kyau, sa'annan sanya shi a cikin babban tukunya da ruwa mai yawa, 1 albasa, 1 stalk na seleri, 1 karas, da kuma wasu faski fashi. Ku kawo tukunya a tafasa, rage zafi don ragewa, kuma ku dafa don tsawon sa'o'i 4-5, kuna tsabtace wuri sau da yawa; yakamata ya kamata ya kamata ya zama m. Da zarar an dafa shi, a yanka shi cikin yatsun yatsa kuma yana shirye don a shirya. Abin da ya yi da shi?
Gyara shine amsar mafi sauki. Artusi ya ba da shawara cewa "ku yanke raguwa a cikin sashi na hamsin kuma ku ɗaure shi a cikin takarda don zubar da shi. A lokacin da ya zubo, cire shi daga zane ya kuma sa shi a cikin kofin 1/3 na man shanu maras yalwa, kuma, sau ɗaya ya shayar da man shanu, ƙara game da kofuna 2 na nama, ko, a cikin rashi, 3/4 fam na tumatir gwangwani. Yanayi tare da gishiri da barkono, simmer na tsawon lokacin (akalla sa'a, kuma mafi yawan zasu fi kyau , ƙara ruwa kamar yadda ya cancanta don kiyaye shi daga bushewa fita), kuma kafin ku bauta masa, ƙura shi da grammar Parmigiano. "
Abincin da aka samo daga Pellegrino Artusi na La scienza a cucina e l'arte di mangiar bene, wanda ya fara karatun litattafan Italiyanci na farko wanda aka yi amfani da shi a tsakiyar ɗakin (fassara a matsayin Art of Eating Well , 1996 Random House).
Litattafan Italiyanci Italiyanci:
- Busecca - Sugar Mutuwar Muraya na Milanese
Wannan wadatacce, miya miya shine sanyi sanyi abinci a mafi kyau. - Trippa alla Romana - Tsarin gargajiya, mai sauƙi, fasikanci na Roman.
- Agnello Trippato - Dan rago ya ƙaddara hanya guda daya dafa, Tuscan kayan gargajiya.
[Edited by Danette St. Sa'a]